Banff Townsite: 129km (80 miles) W of Calgary

Banff is Canada's oldest national park, founded in 1885 as a modest 26 sq. km (10-sq.-mile) reserve by the country's first prime minister, Sir John A. Macdonald. The park is now 6,641 sq. km (2,590 sq. miles) of incredibly dramatic mountain landscape, glaciers, high morainal lakes, and rushing rivers. Its two towns, Lake Louise and Banff, are both splendid counterpoints to the wilderness, with beautiful historic hotels, fine restaurants, and lively nightlife.

If there's a downside to all this sophisticated beauty, it's that Banff is incredibly popular -- it's generally considered Canada's number-one tourist destination. About five million people visit Banff yearly, with the vast majority squeezing in during June, July, and August.

Happily, the wilderness invites visitors to get away from the crowds and from the congestion of the developed sites. Banff Park is blessed with a great many outfitters who make it easy to get on a raft, bike, or horse and find a little mountain solitude. Alternatively, consider visiting the park off season, when prices are lower, the locals are friendlier, and the scenery is just as stunning.

For more information on the park, contact Banff National Park, P.O. Box 900, Banff, AB T1L 1K2 (tel. 403/762-1550; www.pc.gc.ca).